Wines, like people, change over time. They evolve, for better or worse, into new creatures with new outlooks, new expressions, and (in the realm of fiction) new superpowers. Vines change as well, and as Henri Gouges discovered in his vineyards in the 30s, sometimes drastic mutations can occur quite suddenly.

Pinot Blanc ?

Which brings us to this “Pinot Blanc“. As the name suggests, these vines yield white skinned grapes, which are part of the general Pinot family (Pinot Noir, Pinot Meunier, Pinot Gris, Chardonnay, etc.). These grapes are not, however, what we have come to know as Pinot Blanc from the Alsace region. In fact, some refer to this new mutation as Pinot Gouges, or Pinot Musigny: a Pinot Noir vine whose grapes had lost their color!

Pinot Blanc from Burgundy. Not something you see everyday

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I’m quite hesitant to post about my latest tasting experience at the Coup de Grace wine shop. It was absolutely amazing. It was inspiring. It was grand. So why not share it with the rest of the world as my first instinct urges me to do?

Because they were trophy wines. The kind of wines you read about and never actually think you’ll drink. The bottles that wine critics, fortunate businessmen and friends of friends boast about. The empty trophies that throne in wine shop displays and kitchen shelves, as if even the recycling bin was too lowly an end to these mythic labels.

And yet…. I was inspired, so I’ll risk distancing myself for a moment, but I look back at this evening with humility, gazing up at the stars which I was able to touch a single magical moment. But don’t expect any pretty pictures. They were in my smart phone, where I stored their identity for memory’s sake. They are not trophy shots. This is not a trophy post.

Burgundy vs. Rhone

This was the theme of the tasting. My theme turned out to be austerity vs. charm. Over the course of the tasting, the Burgundy reds were stoney, mineral, tight, harsh, challenging. The Rhône wines were lush, generous, fruity, full, intense. Diametrically opposed. I wouldn’t generalize this to regional differences, as I’ve had a fair share of some very charming Burgundies, and ultra dense Rhône reds. But this is how the wines of the evening behaved. They were poured in pairs side by side, semi-blind (though I hadn’t received the list). We started slowly with some great values by well-respected producers, after moving on to the big guns.

Mise en bouche

Ironically, on the nose, the first Burgundy of the tasting was probably the fruitiest, with bright berry aromas and a wonderful elegance that had me thinking Côte de Beaune. On the palate however, the Prieuré Roch 2010 Ladoix “Le Clou” (+) was still a bit young, with grainy tannins and a good dose of acidity, but also some added depth. I suppose the wine seemed more austere in contrast to the fully blossomed l’Anglore 2010 les Traverses (+). This simple Vin de France was intense! Ripe berries and a full, fleshy body made it a winner for me.

Next were two magnificent wines. In Burgundy, the Domaine Ponsot 2009 Chambolle-Musigny “Cuvée des Cigales” (++) was the definition of terroir wine. Ultra tense, stoney minerality, this slender red was perfectly defined and yet lacked nothing in intensity and concentration. I was on the 2008 vintage, and was stunned to see it was actually from the very ripe 2009. This one also needs more time, but I enjoyed it immensely already for its purity. But then…. my wine of the night. Well, at least as far as sheer pleasure and especially value! La Pialade 2007 Côtes du Rhône (++). wow. An absolute stunner. The 3rd wine of Château Rayas (Fonsalette is actually on a different terroir), this 20 euro ripe fruit explosion somehow remained focused and highly drinkable with a great length. Man, this is good. Apparently, it’s hard to get, but I need to find some more!

The main event

On to the heavyweights, which actually began with a disappointment for me. A legendary name, legendary Grand Cru terroir, and a legendary vintage to boot. Comte Georges de Vogüé 1999 Bonnes-Mares (-). Definitely austere, with admittedly a nice purity, but little else in terms of excitement. Others loved the wine, claiming its austerity was not for everyone. Perhaps I’m missing out (though I loved the previous ultra-tight Chambolle), but in the end, it failed to impress. Our host pointed out that I had finished this glass far quicker, praising the wine’s drinkability. I responded that I finished it quicker because I kept coming back to it, searching for that special something, and coming short each time. Wines like these probably need much more time in bottle before revealing their magic.

On the other hand, the delicious Château Rayas 2001 Châteauneuf du Pape (++) was lovely. Sweet stewed fruits on the nose had me thinking of an older Châteauneuf (early to mid 90s) though a fresh character of dried herbs and pine needles emerged slowly, lifting the balance. On the palate, the wine lost the sweetness and the massive beam of fruit remained focused (a house style?) with an incredible concentration and finish. I took my time with this one, and it just got better and better.

Whites

And what better finish to an evening than a pair of insane whites? The first wine’s origin was quite obvious, with overwhelming sea shell aromas and a tightly wound acid structure. I did not expect the 2003 vintage however, as this Domaine Raveneau Chablis 1er cru Montée de Tonnerre (++) had a remarkable tension, and while already a tad evolved, the minerality was even more present than on the Dauvissat I had over the holidays, minus the ripe fruit. In fact, it was quite dry and skeletal, which is right up my alley. The subtle oak influence barely appeared on the finish, without affecting the overall style. A great Chablis!

While the other white almost had me in the Rhône with its almond and honeyed notes, one sip brought me right back to Burgundy. With its luscious fruit and beautiful mineralty, I would have guessed a Chevalier Montrachet. The fact that we were in Meursault surprised me, as its an appellation I’ve often found to be overly oaked, even with other fancy producers. It would seem, however, that Comtes Lafon is an estate which masters this aspect of wine making. The 2002 Meursault-Charmes 1er cru was a beauty. The oak was present here, but never overwhelming. Simply perfect. The ideal balance of pleasure and intellect, which ended the evening with a reminder that sometimes, one need not seek out extremes to find excitement.

In that special moment after uncorking the 2001 Château Fonsalette Côtes du Rhône and taking in the first breath, a single word came to my mind. “Depth” is really one of those wine descriptors which is hard to define precisely. It cannot be measured like acidity or tannin. It cannot be explained in terms of other elements in the wine, and while it usually refers to aromas, it does not refer to any specific aroma, or even a particular family of aromas.

And yet, in its infinite vagueness, it conveys so much in a wine, or rather in the emotional state we feel when experiencing a wine of great depth, which no other word can even begin to capture. Not “complexity” or “deliciousness”. No, depth. As if a wine had allowed us to dive below its exterior charms, draw us down into a forbidden place where comfort meets with excitement, and scents mingle to form an olfactory sea of pleasure.

A person seeking to master the technicalities of wine’s vocabulary may be puzzled by this beautiful descriptor. It is only by letting go of analytical thinking however, that one can truly encounter depth… because it’s not in the wine, but in our perception. Depth perception speaks of the moment, and yet feels almost eternal.

After neglecting this blog for a couple months, followed by a hack job on my wordpress (seriously?), I’ve finally come around to getting the site back up and running again. Just in time to wish everyone a great new year! I’ll still be very busy and may not ramble on as much as I used to, but I still feel like I should get some short Vimpressions up from time to time to keep myself in the bath, as we say in France. And what better way to get back on that horse than with a series of great holiday wines!

La Grange des Pères 2007 VdP de l’Hérault

My first encounter with this renowned Languedoc producer located near Aniane. The wine is youthful and concentrated, with structured though well polished tannins. A ripe vintage, but keeps a minty freshness from the high Cabernet Sauvignon percentage, which is the reason the label doesn’t carry the AOC.

Impression (+)

A very impressive wine that delivered everything I expected: warmth, tension and a solid frame. Almost like a father figure in fact, this “father’s barn” wine carried me on its shoulders as I relived a sunny stroll down the California shore many years ago. But can such a figure ever really live up to its status? This sturdy yet gentle red did, and only a certain childlike defiance kept me from truly releasing myself to its embrace. That and the 60+ euro price tag, though I would still recommend it.

Clavelier 1992 Clos Vougeot

I wasn’t expecting this red Bugundy to offer much honestly: born in a mediocre vintage from one of the more uneven Grand Crus. This 20 year-old bottle still had some life in it however.

Impression (-)

Ripe berry fruit flowed along the mellow texture with only a touch of herbal notes hinting at the less then optimal growing conditions. Still, the wine remained quite pleasant despite the adversity, and while it was not Grand Cru level, it was a  worthy companion for our turkey lunch.

Vincent Dauvissat 2005 Chablis 1er cru La Forest

Another big name, this time in Chablis. Dauvissat, along with Raveneau, is considered one of the very best of the appellation. From a ripe, yet balanced vintage, I wasn’t really sure what style to expect from this producer.

Impression (++)

The first nose gave away intense honeyed notes with ripe apple. There is already a touch of evolution on this premier cru, which I wasn’t necessarily expecting. Chablis does tend to mature relatively quickly, even at this level, but what I’ll take away from this experience is the pure sea shell minerality which emerged in the glass over time. Overshadowing even the deepest white fruits on my nose and palate, this luscious yet precise wine was unmistakably Chablis in character. No oak, and the hallmark acidity was there, though time (or is it the sunny vintage?) had softened its edges, leaving a solid streak across the tongue, without ever cutting in. Very impressive! I’d really like to try this wine from a more recent vintage such as 07, as I tend to prefer the fresher style.

Inniskillin 2008 Niagara Ice Wine Riesling

My brother brought back some fancy ice wine from Montreal. I already had a positive encounter with this wine at a tasting, and it was a nice chance to enjoy it in a more casual setting.

Impression (++)

And what a beauty! The piercing acidity on this very concentrated dessert wine had my taste buds dancing an evocative number around this bright metal pole, their full yet firm flesh swiftly swinging and leaping across my palate. And despite the raw, primitive pleasures it conjured in me, I could not help but applaud the wine as one might an opera or a piano recital.

Just as impressive, the red from Cabernet Franc tried the next day was also a huge success. I highly recommend it!

Here’s hoping 2012 brings even more of such encounters!