Pinot Blanc ?

Which brings us to this “Pinot Blanc“. As the name suggests, these vines yield white skinned grapes, which are part of the general Pinot family (Pinot Noir, Pinot Meunier, Pinot Gris, Chardonnay, etc.). These grapes are not, however, what we have come to know as Pinot Blanc from the Alsace region. In fact, some refer to this new mutation as Pinot Gouges, or Pinot Musigny: a Pinot Noir vine whose grapes had lost their color!

Pinot Blanc from Burgundy. Not something you see everyday

Gouges replanted it in some of his vineyards, and the resulting wines have a character of their own, which I had the pleasure to discover for myself with the entry-level offering, from a vineyard near Nuits-St-Georges.

X-men wines

So what does it taste like? The Henri Gouges 2008 Bourgogne Pinot Blanc (++) has generous honeyed fruit on the nose with a touch of evolution, the aromas give way to a smoky flintiness on the palate. These are notes which I generally associate with tight, mineral wines. The Gouges, however, was quite full and round, and this contrast was quite exciting.

And the real question is, if this wine were an X-men, who would it be?

Wolverine

Wolverine first comes to mind, but the steel claws slashing away at my palate reminds me more of a chiseled Sancerre or Chablis, or a combination of the two: Sauvignon de Saint-Bris.

Cyclops

Cyclops, with his bright red beam of fruit would have me thinking more of an intense Pinot Noir, perhaps from the Côte Chalonnaise or maybe even certain German Spätburgunders.

Storm

Storm actually conjures images of Islay whisky, such as Lagavulin or Laphroig, which ravage your senses from every direction. As a wine, I’m not sure where I’d place her?

Professor Xavier

For professor Xavier, a wine that gets in your head, and whose wisdom comes with age: vin jaune of the Jura of course!

Iceman

Iceman brings us up North, with one of the drier German Rieslings, or perhaps even a cool Savoie white.

Magneto

For the evil doers, Magneto is a powerful one, whose magnetic waves of energy resonate on the palate. Strong, yet elegant I find myself thinking of a fine Barolo from Italy.

Sabertooth

Sabertooth’s brute strength has me first thinking of an Australian Shiraz, but the wild animal side definitely brings me back to the Rhône. The Syrah grape can show itself as the powerful yet sleek reds from the Côte-Rôtie up North, while more southern expressions, such as Chateauneuf du Pape, can reveal the grape’s massive strength when combined with Grenache.

Mystique

Finally, I think Mystique‘s constantly changing appearance is the closest to the Gouges Pinot Blanc which started this whole thought. Mineral at times, with honeyed fruit at others, in the end, the wine is just plain sexy!

So, who am I forgetting?

Because they were trophy wines. The kind of wines you read about and never actually think you’ll drink. The bottles that wine critics, fortunate businessmen and friends of friends boast about. The empty trophies that throne in wine shop displays and kitchen shelves, as if even the recycling bin was too lowly an end to these mythic labels.

And yet…. I was inspired, so I’ll risk distancing myself for a moment, but I look back at this evening with humility, gazing up at the stars which I was able to touch a single magical moment. But don’t expect any pretty pictures. They were in my smart phone, where I stored their identity for memory’s sake. They are not trophy shots. This is not a trophy post.

Burgundy vs. Rhone

This was the theme of the tasting. My theme turned out to be austerity vs. charm. Over the course of the tasting, the Burgundy reds were stoney, mineral, tight, harsh, challenging. The Rhône wines were lush, generous, fruity, full, intense. Diametrically opposed. I wouldn’t generalize this to regional differences, as I’ve had a fair share of some very charming Burgundies, and ultra dense Rhône reds. But this is how the wines of the evening behaved. They were poured in pairs side by side, semi-blind (though I hadn’t received the list). We started slowly with some great values by well-respected producers, after moving on to the big guns.

Mise en bouche

Ironically, on the nose, the first Burgundy of the tasting was probably the fruitiest, with bright berry aromas and a wonderful elegance that had me thinking Côte de Beaune. On the palate however, the Prieuré Roch 2010 Ladoix “Le Clou” (+) was still a bit young, with grainy tannins and a good dose of acidity, but also some added depth. I suppose the wine seemed more austere in contrast to the fully blossomed l’Anglore 2010 les Traverses (+). This simple Vin de France was intense! Ripe berries and a full, fleshy body made it a winner for me.

Next were two magnificent wines. In Burgundy, the Domaine Ponsot 2009 Chambolle-Musigny “Cuvée des Cigales” (++) was the definition of terroir wine. Ultra tense, stoney minerality, this slender red was perfectly defined and yet lacked nothing in intensity and concentration. I was on the 2008 vintage, and was stunned to see it was actually from the very ripe 2009. This one also needs more time, but I enjoyed it immensely already for its purity. But then…. my wine of the night. Well, at least as far as sheer pleasure and especially value! La Pialade 2007 Côtes du Rhône (++). wow. An absolute stunner. The 3rd wine of Château Rayas (Fonsalette is actually on a different terroir), this 20 euro ripe fruit explosion somehow remained focused and highly drinkable with a great length. Man, this is good. Apparently, it’s hard to get, but I need to find some more!

The main event

On to the heavyweights, which actually began with a disappointment for me. A legendary name, legendary Grand Cru terroir, and a legendary vintage to boot. Comte Georges de Vogüé 1999 Bonnes-Mares (-). Definitely austere, with admittedly a nice purity, but little else in terms of excitement. Others loved the wine, claiming its austerity was not for everyone. Perhaps I’m missing out (though I loved the previous ultra-tight Chambolle), but in the end, it failed to impress. Our host pointed out that I had finished this glass far quicker, praising the wine’s drinkability. I responded that I finished it quicker because I kept coming back to it, searching for that special something, and coming short each time. Wines like these probably need much more time in bottle before revealing their magic.

On the other hand, the delicious Château Rayas 2001 Châteauneuf du Pape (++) was lovely. Sweet stewed fruits on the nose had me thinking of an older Châteauneuf (early to mid 90s) though a fresh character of dried herbs and pine needles emerged slowly, lifting the balance. On the palate, the wine lost the sweetness and the massive beam of fruit remained focused (a house style?) with an incredible concentration and finish. I took my time with this one, and it just got better and better.

Whites

And what better finish to an evening than a pair of insane whites? The first wine’s origin was quite obvious, with overwhelming sea shell aromas and a tightly wound acid structure. I did not expect the 2003 vintage however, as this Domaine Raveneau Chablis 1er cru Montée de Tonnerre (++) had a remarkable tension, and while already a tad evolved, the minerality was even more present than on the Dauvissat I had over the holidays, minus the ripe fruit. In fact, it was quite dry and skeletal, which is right up my alley. The subtle oak influence barely appeared on the finish, without affecting the overall style. A great Chablis!

While the other white almost had me in the Rhône with its almond and honeyed notes, one sip brought me right back to Burgundy. With its luscious fruit and beautiful mineralty, I would have guessed a Chevalier Montrachet. The fact that we were in Meursault surprised me, as its an appellation I’ve often found to be overly oaked, even with other fancy producers. It would seem, however, that Comtes Lafon is an estate which masters this aspect of wine making. The 2002 Meursault-Charmes 1er cru was a beauty. The oak was present here, but never overwhelming. Simply perfect. The ideal balance of pleasure and intellect, which ended the evening with a reminder that sometimes, one need not seek out extremes to find excitement.

And yet, in its infinite vagueness, it conveys so much in a wine, or rather in the emotional state we feel when experiencing a wine of great depth, which no other word can even begin to capture. Not “complexity” or “deliciousness”. No, depth. As if a wine had allowed us to dive below its exterior charms, draw us down into a forbidden place where comfort meets with excitement, and scents mingle to form an olfactory sea of pleasure.

A person seeking to master the technicalities of wine’s vocabulary may be puzzled by this beautiful descriptor. It is only by letting go of analytical thinking however, that one can truly encounter depth… because it’s not in the wine, but in our perception. Depth perception speaks of the moment, and yet feels almost eternal.

La Grange des Pères 2007 VdP de l’Hérault

My first encounter with this renowned Languedoc producer located near Aniane. The wine is youthful and concentrated, with structured though well polished tannins. A ripe vintage, but keeps a minty freshness from the high Cabernet Sauvignon percentage, which is the reason the label doesn’t carry the AOC.

Impression (+)

A very impressive wine that delivered everything I expected: warmth, tension and a solid frame. Almost like a father figure in fact, this “father’s barn” wine carried me on its shoulders as I relived a sunny stroll down the California shore many years ago. But can such a figure ever really live up to its status? This sturdy yet gentle red did, and only a certain childlike defiance kept me from truly releasing myself to its embrace. That and the 60+ euro price tag, though I would still recommend it.

Clavelier 1992 Clos Vougeot

I wasn’t expecting this red Bugundy to offer much honestly: born in a mediocre vintage from one of the more uneven Grand Crus. This 20 year-old bottle still had some life in it however.

Impression (-)

Ripe berry fruit flowed along the mellow texture with only a touch of herbal notes hinting at the less then optimal growing conditions. Still, the wine remained quite pleasant despite the adversity, and while it was not Grand Cru level, it was a  worthy companion for our turkey lunch.

Vincent Dauvissat 2005 Chablis 1er cru La Forest

Another big name, this time in Chablis. Dauvissat, along with Raveneau, is considered one of the very best of the appellation. From a ripe, yet balanced vintage, I wasn’t really sure what style to expect from this producer.

Impression (++)

The first nose gave away intense honeyed notes with ripe apple. There is already a touch of evolution on this premier cru, which I wasn’t necessarily expecting. Chablis does tend to mature relatively quickly, even at this level, but what I’ll take away from this experience is the pure sea shell minerality which emerged in the glass over time. Overshadowing even the deepest white fruits on my nose and palate, this luscious yet precise wine was unmistakably Chablis in character. No oak, and the hallmark acidity was there, though time (or is it the sunny vintage?) had softened its edges, leaving a solid streak across the tongue, without ever cutting in. Very impressive! I’d really like to try this wine from a more recent vintage such as 07, as I tend to prefer the fresher style.

Inniskillin 2008 Niagara Ice Wine Riesling

My brother brought back some fancy ice wine from Montreal. I already had a positive encounter with this wine at a tasting, and it was a nice chance to enjoy it in a more casual setting.

Impression (++)

And what a beauty! The piercing acidity on this very concentrated dessert wine had my taste buds dancing an evocative number around this bright metal pole, their full yet firm flesh swiftly swinging and leaping across my palate. And despite the raw, primitive pleasures it conjured in me, I could not help but applaud the wine as one might an opera or a piano recital.

Just as impressive, the red from Cabernet Franc tried the next day was also a huge success. I highly recommend it!

Here’s hoping 2012 brings even more of such encounters!

Clos Coquimbert Chinon (by Philipe Alliet)

And what better wine to celebrate camaraderie than a Loire valley red? These friendly Cabernet Franc wines offer the purest expression of conviviality. For the most part unassuming and relatively accessible, Chinon best embodies the bottle-for-two attitude. Although I tend to approach these wines with a certain skepticism, as there are many overly green releases, the Clos Coquimbert is a beautiful example of this AOC, and has renewed my interest in exploring it further!

Impression (++)

The little known Coquimbert estate is actually tended by Philippe Alliet, one of the most respected Chinon producers. The wine transcends the grape’s at times vegetal character, offering instead fresh, minty notes which back the absolutely gorgeous red fruit. A love potion!!

The precise acidity provides support to the smooth yet solid texture. And again that crisp fruit captures my palate, lingers on, and pleasure soon turns to obsession as I reach for the glass once again. One might almost forget to share!

l’Avant Comptoir

We started off with ham sliced on an antique manual meat slicer (which brought me back to my old job back at New York’s Italian Wine Merchants) and followed it up with a great veal carpaccio and a chunky tuna tataki, finishing our meal off with slices of Brebis cheese.

The wine list here has a focus on natural wines, with familiar names like Lapierre or even Champagne Jacques Lassaigne. I decided to go for a white however, and chose the featured Bourgogne Aligoté by the glass.

Alice et Olivier De Moor

As the guy behind the counter poured my wine, I realized that it was by Alice and Olivier De Moor, an estate located in Burgundy’s Auxerrois district. I’ve been meaning to try their Chablis for a while now, but the opportunity never came around. They are one of the rare producers that work with organic methods in this difficult climate and are starting to make a name for themselves among the natural wine crowd.

Bourgogne Aligoté

Impression (++)

The first glass was very much on rich notes of honeyed fruit and the wine had a very full body for an aligoté, mainly from the very mouth-coating minerality. It was not unlike Aubert de Villaine’s Bouzeron from the same grape in that regard.

After a second pour halfway through the meal however, the wine was completely different. I even wondered if there had not been a mistake, and I had accidentally gotten a Loire Chenin somehow, given the very different profile with loads of quince fruit. There was a subtle oxidation which became apparent, giving the wine great length and combining with the acidity to stretch across my palate and form a silly grin as I was brought back to my Jura roots.

Not sure why the two pours were so different though. Serving temperature? New bottle? There are so many factors that affect our appreciation of wine, it’s hard to be certain. What I am certain of is that this is simply the most exciting and original Aligoté I’ve had the pleasure to taste, and I definitely must try this estate’s Chablis next!

Domaine Gauby

Gauby is undeniably the most notorious producer in southern France’s Roussillon region. Relatively close to Spain, the similarly hot climate here tends to produce quite powerful wines, perhaps even too powerful at times… this  is where Gauby comes in.

This already well established estate took a drastic departure in their wine making style, harvesting grapes earlier and favoring elegance and finesse in a land of brutes. Some have since followed his lead and there has been a mini revival over the past few years, with plenty of excitement coming out of this region.

2008 Côtes du Roussillon Villages Vieilles Vignes

Impression (++)

The noble oak aromas are what initially caught my attention. In fact, the nose on this young wine kept drawing me towards Bordeaux with all the aristocratic qualities one associates with the very refined stamp of expensive barrique. This is not to say that the fruit was hindered, as it was also very present without ever getting too ripe, but my thoughts kept coming back to this delicate and luxurious, even majestic upbringing.

As I kissed this king’s hand in submission, I quickly came to understand that this was no simple figurehead. The incredible strength and sheer might which revealed itself upon contact first surprised me, but as he pulled his long, razor sharp blade and wielded it at my palate, it became clear: the Roussillon king is a conqueror!

There was no brute force here, but an intelligent and precise attack, delivering a massive blow through the center, while the archers pierce through the flank with a stunning acidity. Finally, the cavalry catches the enemy off guard on the surprise finish, claiming victory and marching straight onto the next glass for a seemingly effortless bottle-wide triumph! While well funded at around 30 Euros, this king definitely conquered, and while the iron fist came out on the battlefield, he did not forget to rule with a very velvety tannic glove!

Finally, after much contemplation and “research” on the topic, I decided to gather my thoughts and experiences on a simple, quick reference site: Japanese Food and Wine complemented by a quick blog mostly touching on cross-cultural food and wine topics. It’s not completely finished (the Japanese language blog and mobile version are still in the works) but I figured it’d be nice to get start getting some feedback and even pairing suggestions that have worked for you! So enjoy, and be sure to pass it on to your foodie/wino friends! Kampai!

Reichsrat von Buhl 2007 Forster Jesuitgarten Riesling GG

From one of the top Pfalz vineyards in the notorious village of Forst,  this dry Riesling was opened to celebrate the visit of my cousin. Reichsrat von Buhl, one of the “three Bs” of the Pfalz with Bürklin Wolf and Basserman-Jordan, is probably my favorite of the three, with wines that tend to privilege tension over ripeness. Though we purchased the wine together at the estate, I cellared the wine for her here in France, and while I feared it might be a bit young, we decided that the moment was just too perfect to wait any longer!

Impression (++)

Loved it! This exotic pineapple and passion fruit salad remained well contained, with a very delicate and almost friendly side that took nothing away from its complexity. A subtle, chalky minerality emerged on the palate, adding yet another layer without ever getting too “intellectual” on us. The perfect wine to enjoy at the table with less wine-involved guests, this Riesling appealed to me as a general good mood wine.

Le Mas de l’Ecriture 2007 Languedoc l’Emotion

And now back to the Languedoc, with the entry level bottling by the well-known (and somewhat expensive) Mas de l’Ecriture estate located in the Terasses du Larzac zone. The “Emotion” is a traditional blend of Syrah, Grenache, Carignan and Cinsault.

Impression (-)

Immediately, this powerful red states its ambition with a very deep nose of ripe blackberry fruit and roasted coffee notes. Perhaps served a bit too warm, the alcohol really dominated the overall balance, with the soft tannins and relatively low acidity struggling to keep the wine together. It was definitely top-notch quality, but got a bit heavy with subsequent pours.

If I were to define the emotion which characterized the wine for me, I would refer to the bright red label, a color which represents strong, intense adrenaline inducing emotions associated with strength, power, passion and even danger!

Jean-Marc Burgaud 2009 Morgon Côte de Py

Finally, among the Beaujolais elite, Jean-Marc Burgaud has been crafting wines from his eponymous Morgon estate since 1989. As a big fan of some other Gamay reds from this lauded vintage (Vissoux, Brun and Lapierre), I was expecting a whole lot from this bottle.

Impression (+)

While it didn’t necessarily disappoint, offering a very classic Morgon profile with juicy fruit and a nice supporting acidity, I guess I wasn’t blown away either as with the previous examples. This is probably due to the fact that this one came last in the series, thus losing the surprise and excitement factor. Still, I would very much recommend it for those wishing to get a feel for this top Beaujolais AOC.

Domaine Terre Inconnue

This cult Languedoc estate, run by former chemist Robert Creus, produces wines at Saint Series, just 30 minutes northeast of Montpellier. Despite the great care, low yields and relatively high price tag, they are released as simple Vin de Table, mainly because Robert can’t be bothered dealing with the AOC process. needless to say, he is quite the controversial character, and  as I discovered from tasting the two cuvées Guilhem and Léonie, the wines can be a bit extreme as well!

Guilhem 2009: uncharted territory

The name of the estate, “Terre Inconnue”, literally means -unknown land-, and there is definitely a sense of adventure and exploration in these wines. The cuvée Guilhem is a blend of Grenache, Carigan and Mourvèdre (with a touch of Merlot), and this 2009 was an absolute stunner! After the first whiff of pure alcohol (15%/vol!!!), ripe fruit and licorice eventually emerge on the nose, while the wine could almost be chewed with a concentration and tannic structure which belongs on the plate rather than the glass!

Unfortunately, I made the mistake of serving this with a barbecued magret de canard, which had previously worked well with a fruit bomb Saint-Chinian, but the Guilhelm was in another league. The fruit here takes back seat to the ultra-powerful frame. The beauty of this wine is that the tannins support the monstrous density of this liquid steak without ever getting aggressive. It’s definitely a punch in the face, but the kind that almost feels good. In the end, I finished the bottle without looking back! Impressive!

Léonie 2005 : Evolution

The Léonie however, was quite different. With “only” 14%/vol. alcohol, this 100% Carignan was more contained. This was largely due to the extra time in bottle, and the 2005 was already quite evolved for its age, showing earthy, tertiary aromas over a core of macerated fruit (griotte cherries). Here, it is the pronounced acidity which kept the wine together, and this bottle was more Jekyll than Hyde, though the southern character never quite lost its charm. An interesting counter point to the previous evening’s experience!

Overall, my impression is that this estate makes rather extreme reds which are probably best enjoyed in their youth. These chewy, powerhouse wines are quite seriously crafted, yet they have enough character to turn heads. Definitely not for everyone (or every occasion), but I very much enjoyed them! Thanks again Alex!!